Siem Reap

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At a Glance

A resort set amid working rice and lemongrass fields dotted with palm, mango and banana trees—and featuring its own resident water buffalo—sounds like something that could only exist in the wildest part of remote Cambodia, but this peaceful property in fact sits only 10 minutes outside of bustling Siem Reap. Phum Baitang, which translates to “green village,” comes from the imagination of fashion entrepreneur Arnaud Zannier, whose creative background informs much of the style of the 45 freestanding stilted villas. Inspired by traditional Cambodian design but with an emphasis on comfort, they showcase a luxurious pared-back sensibility, with stripped-wood floors and walls, earth-toned linens, natural-fiber woven rugs and deep soaking tubs. Twenty of the villas have their own private pools and surrounding seating areas, while the remaining 25 each have a spacious and furnished covered terrace.

The Standout: A guided visit to Banteay Srei temple, a one-hour drive away—it’s built largely out of red sandstone, giving it a rose-pink hue
Don’t Miss: A monk blessing, which the hotel can arrange, complete with chants and flower offerings

Indagare Loves

• A dedication to eco- and cultural preservation; only electric vehicles and bicycles are in use on the grounds
• The infinity pool overlooking the green rice paddies
• Cocktails on the first floor of a reconstructed, century-old farmhouse, with top sunset views

Zannier Hotels Phum Baitang Review

The so-called “green village,” Phum Baitang is a truly original hotel project conceived by French fashion entrepreneur Arnaud Zannier on the outskirts of Siem Reap. Visiting Siem Reap and Cambodia, Zannier fell in love with the country’s traditional Khmer architecture and set out to build a resort where guests could experience a distinct sense of place.

The property is located a 10-minute drive from the center of town, but it feels much miles further thanks to a peaceful vibe and generous space. Forty-five freestanding villas—20 pool villas and 25 terrace villas—are scattered around working rice and lemongrass fields—complete with water buffalo—and guests can either walk or bike along elevated wooden paths, imbuing the property with a lovely slow pace. The fields are also not guest gimmicks – the crops find their way into the menus at the restaurants, as well as are used creatively in spa treatments and in cocktails.

Dotting this lush setting are the stilted villas that are generously sized, stylish and comfortable. Inspired by traditional Cambodian design and built largely with indigenous materials, they feature a stylish “less-is-more” design: stripped wood floors, exposed wood-beam ceilings, King-size bed and large bathrooms with a deep soaking tub. The generously sized outdoor terraces are covered, offering shade from the Cambodian heat, and there is a cushy couch where afternoons can be spent reading and napping. More subtle details add to the serene vibe here: for instance, designer Geraldine Dohogne created several elements that play with the effects of light, such as a wall built of rotating blinds at the reception entrance and latticed windows on each villa.

Phum Baitang excels when it comes to beautiful nooks for whiling away an afternoon. The elevated pool has expansive views and small thatched palapas; the poolside restaurant serves a well-edited menu of Khmer and international dishes; and the large Spa Temple is a beautifully designed Zen space that’s tucked away from the rest of the property. Its five treatment rooms, relaxation area, sauna and steam room are designed with an architectural nod to the Angkor temples’ columned walls and treatments are sure to balance both body and mind.

Days end at the terrific bar, the Sunset Lounge, which seems to have spring out of Ernest Hemingway’s imagination, with chocolate-colored wooden floors, tall woven wicker loungers overlooking the rice paddies and walls and tables covered with antiques. Dinner rotates between two restaurants, the more fine-dining Hang Bay and the more casual Bay Phsar, which both offer local and international flavors.

Who Should Stay

Travelers who love a unique sense of place, and who are looking for relaxation and serenity (i.e. spa and pool time; reading at your villa; great meals etc.) Phum Baitang also makes a great combination with a hotel in town. Get your shopping, market-touring and dining fix while staying at the Raffles, the Park Hyatt or Aman, and then end for 2-3 nights at Phum Baitang for total relaxation. And, again, while it can serve as a property for total relaxation, it also is very easy to explore Siem Reap and temple tour from this hotel.

Due to the property’s size, those with mobility issues might be more comfortable at one of the more compact properties in town.

Author

• Indagare